![]() ![]() As an alternative, the load can be spread over a larger area by using a steel plate. Normally the column (the two or three studs you bring to the basement) are supported on a separate footing, designed to prevent frost heave and concrete cracking. The limiting factor is diagonal shear of the concrete, which is a function of the thickness of the floor and the area of load. Although the concrete in your basement may be rated at 3000 psi, that does NOT mean you can put a heavy load on it. You have probably worked all this out, but you need to show all of the connections on the plan, at least in my town you do.ġ. The studs need to be positively connected to a main beam in the basement, or they need to be supported on individual footers. You have probably discussed this with your inspector depending on the length, you may be able to get by with doubled studs, ask the inspector. I did a similar project between my kitchen and dining room, and I used tripled wood 2x4 studs to support each side of the beam (I used a steel beam). You need to carefully design the supports for the beam. You could always hire an engineer to size the beam, but if the supplier will size it for you, why spend the extra money? Unless you have a very unusual building inspector, they are not likely to accept a design from an on line chat room. Just make sure you use the Simpson specified nails, and use all of them.Īs for sizing the beam, if your supplier is willing to certify the beam for your application, and the building inspector will accept their certification, that seems like the way to go. You would simply need to cut the joists, install the beam, install the hangers, and nail the joist ends into the hangers. Joist hangers are more positive connectors, and of course Simpson makes a line of them, one of which would certainly meet your needs. ![]() Your plan is feasible, however I do not recommend use of twist straps to support joists. ![]()
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